Is Tudor now looking to Swatch for inspiration? At the latest Geneva Watch Days, the Swiss manufacturer launched a new 39-mm version of the Pelagos. I was given the opportunity to test the diver for a whole week on the wrist. Here, I’ll tell you everything I learned about this Tudor novelty, and why I still prefer my Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight.
Smaller sibling of the Tudor Pelagos 42?
If you have a soft spot for modestly-sized diving watches, the Tudor Pelagos 39 will win you over. The case measures 39 mm across, with a lug-to-lug of just 47 mm. Thanks to its height of 11.8 mm, the diver is satisfyingly slim on the wrist. Do you prefer smaller watches or have slimmer wrists? If so, this Tudor may be just what you’re looking for. However, it wouldn’t be fair to simply call it the smaller sibling of the 42-mm version. No, the reduced diver actually strikes its own course in a number of areas. For starters, the 39-mm model does without a date function and is only water-resistant to 200 m (656 ft), compared to the larger version’s 500 m (1,640 ft). The latter spec means the smaller watch gives you a much more standard, much less tool-watch-like offering. But that’s not the only indication that this watch has a slightly more elegant nature: Its dial has a matte sunburst finish and the eye-catching, satin-brushed ceramic bezel shimmers with a silky sheen. The red Pelagos inscription is slightly reminiscent of that on the Rolex Sea-Dweller, and affords the watch a refreshing touch. When you take all of these smaller details into account, one thing becomes absolutely clear: the new Tudor Pelagos 39 is pretty flashy for a tool watch.
Tudor Pelagos 39: Discreet High-Quality Finishing
The Tudor Pelagos 39 is primarily made of titanium, which means the diver weighs just 107 g. This makes the watch incredibly comfortable to wear, even after numerous hours on the wrist; however, it is a bit of a double-edged sword. Due to its lightweight nature, the watch also feels somewhat lower quality than an ordinary steel watch. The same cannot be said about the dial. Its sunburst finish is a feast for the eyes and the applied hour markers look top quality, as do the hour, minute, and second hands. The ceramic bezel is likewise successful: It is easy to grip, easy to use, and is even outfitted with glow-in-the-dark luminous material. The bezel haptics are great, but it still pales in comparison to the bezel on the Tudor Black Bay, which has a slightly crisper note when turning. The matte beveled case and bracelet are also very well made, as is the additional rubber strap that comes standard with the full set. The matte finish on both the case and bracelet gives the Pelagos 39 a rough, industrial charm. I think it suits the model perfectly, but it may not be everyone’s cup of tea. The new T-Fit clasp is a practical and visually appealing addition to the watch. It enables you to exchange the band quickly without the need for any tools. Thanks to the folding diving extension, you can also comfortably wear this watch over your neoprene while diving. While the T-Fit clasp suits the modern Tudor perfectly in terms of quality and functionality, the clasp is actually a bit too big for the modestly-sized Pelagos. I can imagine the current clasp fitting much better on the 42-mm version of the model, but I would’ve preferred to see a slightly narrower T-Fit clasp on the 39-mm diver.
Tudor Pelagos 39 vs. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
As a new 39-mm Tudor diving watch, comparisons with the popular Black Bay Fifty-Eight are almost inevitable. Both 39-mm watches have similar things to offer in terms of technical specifications: They are powered by in-house movements with a 70-hour power reserve, feature sapphire crystals, and are water-resistant to 200 m (656 ft). The ceramic bezel and new T-Fit clasp give the Pelagos 39 a slight edge over the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, but the latter has its own appealing attributes. The charming competitor feels more like a luxury watch than the lightweight titanium Pelagos thanks to its polished steel surfaces and more substantial weight. Plus, the character of each watch isn’t really that comparable. The Tudor Pelagos 39 is a thoroughly modern titanium diver with a tool watch vibe, while the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a vintage-inspired steel watch with warmer tones and an abundance of charm. The good news for collectors? These diverging characters are precisely why both watches could have a solid position in the same watch box. If I had to choose between the two, however, I would have to go with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. For me, it remains the top model in the Tudor lineup. I’d gladly do without the ceramic bezel and T-Fit clasp for arguably one of the most beautiful diving watches on the market – neither feature would really suit the 58’s vintage look anyway. There’s no doubt that the Tudor Pelagos 39 is a beautiful watch, but despite its appeal, the model still strikes me as a bit too “tooly.”
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Beats the Pelagos: Summary
There is no doubt that the Tudor Pelagos 39 is a well-designed diving watch, despite its lightweight feel and slightly oversized clasp. It is a comfortable size and feels great on the wrist. The sunburst dial gives the modestly-sized tool watch a more refined look, and the practicality of the T-Fit clasp and beauty of the ceramic bezel are among the model’s strengths.
But my biggest issue with the new Tudor Pelagos 39 is that it’s neither fish nor fowl. The dial and bezel give the impression that it’s trying to be a genuine diver, but the titanium case gives it a distinct tool-like character. I guess the combo could work, but as a tool/diving watch, it’s lacking in comparison to its larger sibling model. Plus, with a list price of $4,400, it’s only a few hundred dollars cheaper than its larger counterpart, but lacks the increased water resistance, date function, and patented clasp of the 42-mm version. While the T-Fit may look better, the former clasp is actually more in keeping with the Pelagos’ functional character. In my opinion, the larger Pelagos is the better choice for a genuine tool watch. Nevertheless, if you are looking for a modern diver with a reduced diameter, you may really enjoy this new Tudor. Watch collectors looking to add another diving watch to their collection can do so without hesitation. And while the new Pelagos won’t necessarily make me sell my Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight any time soon, I have to hand it to the brand: The Tudor Pelagos 39 is a beautiful addition to their portfolio.
